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While waiting for the vines to become productive, Ted and Deborah continued to raise sheep, totally unprofitably, for five years. Wine production began in 1975 with grapes purchased from neighboring vineyards. Production was modest for the first three years, and under the direction of consulting winemakers, afforded the founders an education in winemaking. Production is currently about 30,000 cases a year, two-thirds of which is produced from estate-grown grapes. Navarro's style of winemaking is slowly evolving as the vineyards reach maturity, since the fruit produced by a vineyard is a unique combination of microclimate, soil, and cultural practices. Generally, Navarro strives to produce wines in which one can "taste the vineyard," similar perhaps to the French idea of "gout de terroir." Each vineyard site is fermented and aged as a separate lot; experiments within these lots are helping the winery define its style.Most of the wines are produced by the French cuvee system. A cuvee is selected by blending the individual vineyard lots together to produce a single wine that is better than any of its separate components. To achieve a perfectly balanced wine, some lots are added in their entirety, while others are only partially added. The remaining lots of wine are used in the production of house wines. The style of some of the wines produced was planned. Navarro's dry Gewürztraminer is perhaps the best example: Deborah and Ted love Alsatian wines and specifically selected a vineyard site with soils to produce a similar wine. Other wines were serendipitous: it was preferred not to spray chemicals on the vines, so by harvest some of the grapes were rotten. The rot that dominates in the cool, humid climate of Anderson Valley is botrytis cinerea. Ted says, "If anyone had told us in 1974 that we would be producing sweet wines from rotten grapes and enjoying it, we would have considered them crazy!"The cooperage used is quite traditional: 50 gallon Burgundian barrels for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. German and French oak ovals (300 to 1500 gallons) for Gewürztraminer , Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muscat. The latest high-tech equipment is used in the production of white wines, (e.g. stainless panels for temperature control inside every oak oval, stainless steel membrane press, progressive cavity pumps, etc.) but Navarro Pinot Noir is made by "Methode l'Ancienne" (without modern machinery). The winemaking regimes are frequently a blend of traditional and modern techniques and have been arrived at by experimentation to best suit the grapes from the ranch vineyards. Ted Bennett & Deborah Cahn
Jim Klein
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